Cookery Books
Comments from the author:
When I moved over here, I had to make some hard decisions about which cookery books I brought over with me. The following are the ones which made the grade, and why they did so...
River Cottage Cookbook - Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall
When I visit other English speakers' houses round here, the one book I know they'll have somewhere is this one. They may have even tried to do some of the simpler things it describes. Why does this book work so well? Well, I think that the charm of the author came over very well in the TV series (and which of us bought the book without watching the series) and the time is (or was) right for a British cookbook which explained the source of the food.
I agree with pretty much everything Hugh says - especially the chapter on pork. I'm not sure that I'm ever going to have a pig butchery weekend but do dream of the day when I will own a smoking chimney!
I suppose that if Hugh has persuaded us to look at what we buy (and thus eat) just a little bit, and think about where it comes from, then he will have done his bit for food quality and animal welfare.
Appetite - Nigel Slater
I bought this in a remainder shop in Greenwich in late 2000. It was a signed first edition (if you can find an unsigned copy, it's worth an absolute fortune) and cost very little.
Nigel starts from first principles admitting that, whilst he has every kitchen gadget known to man, it is better to have a minimal amount of equipment that you know well.
Some of the recipies don't work for me (living in France) but his roast chicken is perfect! This is a gentle book by a gentle man - not a word is wasted. His obvious love for great ingredients, not ruined by over fancy preparation means that even if you don't like the way he cooks something, you can't help but to understand why he does it that way.
The chapter on What you need in your Storecupboard is an act of genius and something I've never seen in any other food book. Possibly the greatest food writer around today?
Practical Cookery - Ceserani & Kinton
If you go to catering college, this is the book you use. It might seem very outdated nowadays in someways, with some of the recipes seeming a bit schooldinnerish.
In other ways it is very modern and nanny state (apparently knives are sharp and can be dangerous !) - the earlier editions weren't quite so caring (and all the better for that).
Kitchen Confidential - Anthony Bourdain
What can you say about this book? You won't learn a lot about cooking - no recipes here! You will learn about what goes on in every restaurant kitchen. Go into a restuarant after reading this book and ask for a steak, Very well done. Go on, I dare you!
The one thing that I remember from this book is the quote... "What makes us professional chefs different from you? We use shallots and butter - lots of both!"
Since reading this book, I have always had a little space (you don't need much) next to the cooker, with all my herbs, knives, oils etc. close at hand. Always in the same place. It works for me, it wouldn't work for you - you'd want to arrange things slightly differently. That would work for you but, then, it wouldn't work for me.
I can find what I want without thinking about it, without looking. I learned that from ths book.
Alice B. Toklas Cookbook - Gertrude Stein
Lots of very good recipes and a lot of history as well. Getrude knew everyone in Paris during the 20's and 30's and when war broke out, she stayed in France even though she was an American.
Obviously the recipes (and the stories, even) are outdated but her love of food shines through.
Goosefat & Garlic - Jeanne Strang
This book ties with The River Cottage Cookbook as my favourite. It is not just a collection of recipes but a description of life in South-West France - from a cullinary point of view.
However, some of the recipes are great - definately going to try the cream of chestnut soup this year!
The book succeeds because the author neither looks down on the Paysans who created the recipes in the first place, neither does she try to tart up the recipes to meet modern tastes. This is a genuine book.
